So, these products may be ineffective for smoothing out 3D prints. And, to try would become very expensive and potentially obscure a lot of the detail.Īlso note that gap-fillers also have particulate matter (the gap-filling stuff) that won’t “fit” into the sub-micron sized build layers. Gap-fillers will not remove 3D print layers. In this case, gap-filling works to reduce the gaps between pieces, but does little to reduce the presence of 3D printed build layers. A major challenge of 3D printing model is the need to cover-up or conceal the actual 3D printing artifacts, such as build layers and gaps. Here you can see the final 3D printed tank with gap-filler applied to the largest separations. The print layers are the visible 2D printed layers that make up the 3D object.įor our needs, the best modeling outcome quality would be to remove those small print layers.
This is especially true for fuse-filament deposition (FDM) printing methods, like what I used for this tank.Ī 3D print is basically 2D printing performed over and over again through the machine. Of course, with 3D printed parts you’ll find that in many spots on the surface you’ll see the print lines. Then, sand down the excess, hardened gap-filler with sand paper, or whatever your preferred method is for smoothing a surface. I keep applying gap-filling product until there is a raise bit of the gap-filler above the two parts. Then, do it again if you still see the depression between the two parts. Then, using your finger (dampened with water) or a rubber spreader, push the gap-filling product into the separated parts. The best way to use a gap-filler is to apply as much of the products as you need to cover the gap. It’s harder to use on 3D prints (doesn’t stick as well). I think this is better left to plastic kits. Nowadays, there are a lot more economical 3D printers. The 3D printer I used is an Ultimaker 2+, which I purchased several years ago. But, you can check out this site for more info on the process. So, for the sake of brevity, I won’t go into that here.
#Warhammer 40k 3d models how to
There are a lot of resources online about how to operate 3D printing software and hardware. I used the free, open-sourced software “ CURA” to slice the model into layers for the 3D printer. If you look closely, the model is missing a ton of details, but I try to add later with kit-based pieces from real sprues. The model I printed was a re-rendered 3D model of the Forgeworld Spartan Assault tank. To read more about the legality or ethics of 3D printing game models, check out this article. In either case, some of the work that you can see there is incredibly well-done. These individuals either got the 3D renders from someone else, or modeled the pieces using software themselves. And, if you were wondering, the only way that these 3D printable files of look-a-like models are there is that someone uploaded them. There are TON of Warhammer models on Thingiverse. You can find other cool Warhammer inspired tanks and vehicles here, too!
#Warhammer 40k 3d models download
Thingiverse is an open-source database that people can upload 3D printable files to, or download from. The model I printed was from a 3D printable file that I found on. These 3D printable files are listed as either “*.OBJ” or “*.STL” formats. To 3D print anything, you need a 3D printable file of the model.